The Complete Guide to Mouse-Proofing Your Home: Where Mice Enter & How to Seal Every Gap

Stop mice before they invade. A room-by-room inspection guide with photos, materials list, and exactly where to look.

Why This Guide Matters (And Why Store-Bought Traps Aren’t Enough)

You’ve seen the droppings. Maybe heard scratching in the walls at night. You bought traps at the hardware store, caught one or two mice, and thought you were done.

Then more appeared.

Here’s the hard truth: Traps don’t solve mouse problems. You’re treating the symptom, not the cause. Every mouse you catch is being replaced by new mice entering through gaps you haven’t sealed yet.

The math is brutal:

One breeding pair produces 60 mice in 90 days
Mice squeeze through holes the size of a dime (6mm)
A typical Chicago-area home has 20-30 potential entry points
If you seal 95% of entries, mice will still find the 5% you missed

This guide shows you how to find and seal EVERY entry point—the only permanent solution to mouse problems.

Why Mice Target Your Home (Understanding the Enemy)

Mice need three things to survive:

Food (crumbs, pet food, bird seed, pantry items)
Water (leaky pipes, condensation, pet bowls)
Shelter (warmth, protection from predators)

Your home is a five-star hotel.

Peak Invasion Season: September-November

When outdoor temperatures drop below 50°F, field mice and house mice actively seek indoor shelter. In the Chicago area, this means:

Mid-September: Mice begin exploring entry points
October: Mass movement indoors begins (first freeze)
November-March: Peak indoor activity
Year-round: Urban areas near food sources (restaurants, dumpsters)

Critical Window: Seal your home in August-September before mice start looking. Once they’re inside, sealing is harder (you’re trapping them in).

When to Mouse-Proof Your Home

Best Time: Late Summer/Early Fall (August-September)

Why this timing works:

Mice haven’t entered yet (easier to seal when home is mouse-free)
Weather is mild (easier outdoor work)
Prevents the problem rather than reacting to it
One-time effort protects you all winter

You Can Mouse-Proof Anytime, But:

If mice are already inside:

Set traps FIRST (eliminate existing population)
THEN seal entry points (so you’re not trapping them in)
Monitor for 7-10 days after sealing (catch stragglers)

Winter mouse-proofing challenges:

Harder to work outdoors (cold, snow, ice)
Some materials don’t apply well in freezing temps
Harder to spot gaps with snow cover
BUT still worth doing—better late than never

Tools & Materials You’ll Need

Inspection Tools

Flashlight (bright LED, preferably headlamp for hands-free)
Mirror (inspection mirror for tight spaces)
Camera/phone (document gaps for later sealing)
Measuring tape
Pen and notepad (track locations)

Sealing Materials

Primary Materials (Use These):

✅ Steel wool or copper mesh (mice can’t chew through)
✅ Hardware cloth (1/4 inch mesh, galvanized steel)
✅ Sheet metal (for larger gaps)
✅ Expanding foam (Great Stuff Pro with pestblock, NOT regular foam)
✅ Caulk (exterior-grade silicone or polyurethane)
✅ Door sweeps (brush or rubber, minimum 1-inch seal)
✅ Aluminum flashing
✅ Concrete patch (for foundation cracks)

Secondary Materials:

Wire cutters (for cutting hardware cloth)
Tin snips (for sheet metal)
Caulk gun
Utility knife
Drill with bits
Screwdriver
Gloves (steel wool is sharp!)

Materials to AVOID (Common Mistakes)

❌ Regular expanding foam (mice chew through easily) ❌ Spray foam insulation alone (needs barrier) ❌ Wood (mice chew through in hours) ❌ Plastic (chewed through easily) ❌ Rubber alone (degrades, mice chew) ❌ Caulk alone in large gaps (mice dig through)

Golden Rule: If mice can chew it, it doesn’t work. Use metal barriers FIRST, then foam/caulk behind for weatherproofing.

Entry Point #1: The Garage (75% of Mouse Entry Points)

Why garages are mouse magnets:

Direct connection to living space (door to house)
Food storage (pet food, bird seed, pantry overflow)
Clutter provides cover
Garage doors have multiple gaps
Often overlooked during construction

Garage Inspection Checklist

1. Garage Door Bottom Seal

[ ] Check rubber seal for cracks, gaps, or missing sections
[ ] Test: Close door, turn off lights, look for light coming through
[ ] Mice need only 1/4 inch gap (6mm)—if light shows, mice can enter

Common Issues:

Seal hardened/cracked from age and weather
Uneven concrete creates gaps at corners
Seal pulled away from door bottom

Solution:

Replace entire bottom seal ($20-40, DIY-friendly)
Use brush-style seal for uneven surfaces
Add secondary seal if needed

2. Garage Door Side Tracks

[ ] Inspect where vertical tracks meet door frame
[ ] Check for gaps between track and wall
[ ] Look for deteriorated weather stripping

Solution:

Stuff gaps with copper mesh
Cover with caulk or foam (pest-resistant)
Replace side seals if needed

3. Garage-to-House Door

[ ] Check bottom gap (most critical)
[ ] Inspect sides and top for gaps
[ ] Check threshold condition

Solution:

Add door sweep if gap exceeds 1/4 inch
Apply weatherstripping to sides and top
Replace threshold if damaged

4. Garage Floor Cracks & Gaps

[ ] Inspect perimeter where wall meets floor
[ ] Check for cracks in concrete
[ ] Look along garage-to-house wall bottom

Solution:

Fill cracks with concrete patch or epoxy
Seal wall-to-floor gap with foam + steel wool
Pay special attention to corners

5. Garage Utility Penetrations

[ ] Water heater exhaust pipes
[ ] Gas lines
[ ] Electrical conduit
[ ] Cable/internet lines

Solution:

Pack gaps with steel wool first (tight)
Cover with expanding foam (pest-resistant)
Smooth and trim excess after curing

6. Garage Windows

[ ] Check frame condition
[ ] Look for gaps around frame
[ ] Inspect weatherstripping

Entry Point #2: Foundation & Basement

Mice travel along foundations looking for ANY gap. Even the smallest crack is an invitation.

Foundation Inspection

Walk Your Perimeter (Outside):

[ ] Inspect foundation at ground level
[ ] Check for cracks wider than 1/4 inch
[ ] Look where different materials meet (brick to concrete, siding to foundation)
[ ] Check basement window wells
[ ] Inspect where utilities enter (AC lines, electrical, cable)

Common Foundation Entry Points:

1. Foundation Cracks

Settlement cracks in poured concrete
Mortar gaps in brick/block foundations
Corner cracks (most common)

Solution:

Clean crack thoroughly (remove debris)
Pack with hydraulic cement or concrete epoxy
For active cracks, consult structural engineer first

2. Basement Window Wells

Gaps between window frame and foundation
Deteriorated window wells (rusted metal)
Missing or damaged well covers

Solution:

Cover wells with polycarbonate covers (prevents debris and mice)
Seal frame-to-foundation gaps with caulk + steel wool
Replace rusted wells

3. Weep Holes (Brick Veneer Homes)

Small holes at base of brick walls (designed for drainage)
Mice can enter through these

Solution:

Install copper mesh inserts (allow drainage, block mice)
DO NOT seal completely (causes moisture problems)

4. HVAC/AC Line Penetrations

Refrigerant lines entering home
Often oversized holes with large gaps

Solution:

Pack gap with copper mesh tightly
Cover with pest-resistant expanding foam
Caulk exterior for weather seal

5. Dryer Vents

Exterior vent flap doesn’t close properly
Gap around vent pipe
Damaged vent hood

Solution:

Replace vent hood if flap broken
Use model with spring-loaded damper
Seal gap around pipe with steel wool + foam

Entry Point #3: Roof & Attic Access

Mice are excellent climbers. They access roofs via:

Trees with branches touching house
Utility lines (cable, electric)
Downspouts and gutters
Vines and climbing plants

Roof/Attic Inspection

Exterior Inspection (Use Binoculars if Needed):

1. Soffit Vents

[ ] Check all soffit vents for tears in screening
[ ] Look for gaps where soffit meets fascia
[ ] Inspect corner joints

Solution:

Replace damaged vent screens (1/4 inch mesh)
Seal gaps at joints with caulk
Consider adding hardware cloth behind existing vents

2. Roof Vents

[ ] Ridge vents (check for gaps at ends)
[ ] Gable vents (check screening condition)
[ ] Turbine vents (check base seal)

Solution:

Secure loose flashing
Replace damaged vent screening
Add hardware cloth behind if screen is thin

3. Fascia Boards

[ ] Check for rot (especially behind gutters)
[ ] Look for gaps where fascia meets soffit
[ ] Inspect corners

Solution:

Replace rotted wood (mice chew through rot easily)
Seal gaps with hardware cloth + foam
Keep gutters clean (prevents rot)

4. Chimney

[ ] Check chimney cap condition
[ ] Look for gaps where chimney meets roofline
[ ] Inspect mortar condition

Solution:

Install chimney cap with 1/4 inch mesh if missing
Seal roof gaps with flashing
Repair deteriorated mortar

Interior Attic Inspection:

5. Attic Insulation Disturbance

Look for mouse trails (compressed insulation paths)
Check for droppings
Look for nesting materials (shredded insulation, paper)

6. Roof-to-Wall Gaps

Where roof deck meets exterior walls
Often has gaps from construction

Solution:

Stuff gaps with hardware cloth
Cover with expanding foam
Maintain ventilation (don’t over-seal)

Entry Point #4: Utility Penetrations (Hidden Highways)

Every pipe, wire, and cable entering your home is a potential mouse highway.

Complete Utility Inspection

1. Main Electrical Service

Where electrical mast/conduit enters home
Often 2-3 inch diameter hole for 1-inch pipe

Solution:

Pack gap with copper mesh (tightly)
Cover with pest-resistant foam
Caulk exterior surface

2. Cable/Internet Lines

Usually drilled holes slightly oversized
Multiple cables = larger gaps

Solution:

Remove cables temporarily if possible
Fill gap with steel wool around cables
Apply expanding foam carefully
Trim and caulk when cured

3. Gas Lines

Where gas meter connects to house
Supply lines entering basement

Solution:

Use copper mesh (compatible with gas lines)
Foam around mesh (check local codes)
Seal carefully without stressing pipes

4. Water Supply Lines

Where main water line enters
Outdoor faucet penetrations
Basement supply lines

Solution:

Pack with copper mesh
Use waterproof expanding foam
Caulk exterior to prevent water infiltration

5. Exhaust Vents

Bathroom exhaust vents
Kitchen range hood exhaust
Gas appliance exhaust

Solution:

Ensure vent flaps close properly
Seal gaps around vent pipe
Add damper if missing

6. Air Conditioning Lines

Refrigerant lines (usually 2 copper pipes)
Often significant gaps around penetration

Common Problem: HVAC installers make holes too large, never seal properly

Solution:

Steel wool packed tightly first
Pest-resistant foam
Weatherproof caulk exterior

Entry Point #5: Doors & Windows

Even well-maintained doors and windows can have mouse-sized gaps.

Door Inspection

Every Door in Your Home:

1. Entry Doors

[ ] Check bottom gap (should be less than 1/4 inch)
[ ] Test side and top weatherstripping
[ ] Inspect threshold condition
[ ] Look for gap between door and frame when closed

Solution:

Add door sweep (brush or rubber)
Replace weatherstripping if compressed/damaged
Adjust door if gap on one side
Replace threshold if cracked/damaged

2. Basement Doors (Bulkhead/Bilco)

Often have large gaps
Rubber seals deteriorate
Mice enter, then access basement

Solution:

Replace rubber seals
Add weatherstripping
Ensure proper latch alignment

3. Sliding Doors

Bottom track collects debris
Weatherstripping wears out
Frame gaps develop

Solution:

Clean track thoroughly
Replace weatherstripping
Seal frame gaps with caulk

Window Inspection

Every Window:

1. Window Frames

[ ] Check where frame meets house exterior
[ ] Look for gaps in caulking
[ ] Inspect sill condition (rot creates entry points)

Solution:

Recaulk gaps (exterior-grade silicone)
Replace rotted sills (mice chew through rot)
Ensure proper drainage (prevents rot)

2. Window Screens

Tears in screening
Gaps where screen meets frame
Missing screens

Solution:

Repair tears with screen patch
Replace screens with damage
Ensure tight fit in frame

3. Window Wells (Basement)

Often forgotten
Debris accumulates
Perfect mouse highway to basement

Solution:

Install clear covers (let light in, keep mice out)
Clean out debris regularly
Seal window frame gaps

Hidden Entry Points Most People Miss

These are the entry points professionals find that homeowners overlook:

1. Deck Ledger Boards

Where deck attaches to house, gap often exists behind board.

How to Find: Look under deck, inspect house connection Solution: Seal from underneath with hardware cloth + foam

2. Exterior Outlets & Fixtures

Outdoor electrical outlets, light fixtures, mailboxes mounted on house.

How to Find: Remove cover plate, inspect penetration Solution: Seal around fixture box with steel wool + foam

3. Crawl Space Vents

Damaged or missing screens on foundation vents.

How to Find: Walk perimeter, check all foundation vents Solution: Replace screening with 1/4 inch hardware cloth

4. Behind Siding

Gaps where siding meets windows, doors, or trim.

How to Find: Use flashlight from angle, look for darkness/gaps Solution: Inject foam behind siding or remove and seal properly

5. Plumbing Stack Boots

Rubber boots around plumbing vents on roof deteriorate.

How to Find: Roof inspection (or binoculars from ground) Solution: Replace boot, ensure tight seal

6. Bathroom/Kitchen Fan Covers

Interior vent covers without proper back-draft dampers.

How to Find: Remove cover, check for open duct Solution: Install in-line damper, seal duct connections

7. Fireplace Damper

Damper doesn’t close completely or missing.

How to Find: Look up chimney from fireplace Solution: Repair/replace damper, install chimney cap

8. Between First and Second Story

Gap where first floor exterior meets second floor (balloon framing).

How to Find: Difficult—look for evidence in attic or basement Solution: Professional inspection recommended

9. Attached Garage Attic Access

Mice enter garage, then access house attic through garage attic.

How to Find: Check for passage between garage and house attic Solution: Seal penetration with hardware cloth

10. Landscaping Against Foundation

Mulch, soil, or plants piled against house create hidden gaps.

How to Find: Pull back mulch, inspect foundation Solution: Maintain 3-6 inch gap between mulch and foundation

How to Seal Each Entry Point (Step-by-Step)

Sealing Technique #1: Small Gaps (1/4 to 1 inch)

Best for: Utility penetrations, small cracks, gaps around pipes

Materials: Steel wool or copper mesh + expanding foam

Steps:

Clean gap thoroughly (remove debris, dust, old caulk)
Pack steel wool tightly into gap (use screwdriver to push deep)
Fill should be 1/2 to 1 inch deep minimum
Apply expanding foam over steel wool (not instead of)
Let cure completely (follow product directions)
Trim excess foam flush with surface
Paint or caulk for finished appearance

Why This Works: Mice can’t chew through steel wool. Foam holds wool in place and weatherproofs.

Common Mistake: Using foam alone. Mice chew through regular foam in hours.

Sealing Technique #2: Medium Gaps (1-3 inches)

Best for: Larger utility penetrations, gaps around AC lines, spaces between building materials

Materials: Hardware cloth (1/4 inch mesh) + expanding foam + caulk

Steps:

Cut hardware cloth to size (slightly larger than gap)
Insert cloth into gap, bending to fit contours
Secure edges if possible (small screws or staples)
Pack behind cloth with copper mesh if gap is deep
Apply expanding foam behind/around hardware cloth
Let cure, trim excess
Caulk edges for weather seal

Why This Works: Hardware cloth provides rigid barrier mice can’t breach.

Sealing Technique #3: Large Openings (3+ inches)

Best for: Missing vent covers, large foundation gaps, open crawl spaces

Materials: Sheet metal or hardware cloth + frame + caulk/foam

Steps:

Measure opening accurately
Cut material 1/2 inch larger than opening
Create frame if needed (wood or metal)
Install hardware cloth in/on frame
Secure frame to structure (screws)
Seal edges with caulk
Paint if desired

Why This Works: Properly installed, creates permanent barrier.

Sealing Technique #4: Foundation Cracks

Best for: Concrete or masonry cracks

Materials: Hydraulic cement or concrete epoxy

Steps:

Clean crack thoroughly (wire brush, compressed air)
Widen crack slightly with chisel (creates better bond)
Wet crack with water (for hydraulic cement)
Mix cement according to package
Pack into crack firmly (use trowel)
Smooth surface
Keep moist during curing (hydraulic cement)

Why This Works: Properly filled cracks are as strong as original concrete.

Sealing Technique #5: Door Sweeps

Best for: Door bottoms with gaps

Materials: Door sweep (brush or rubber style)

Steps:

Measure door width
Cut sweep to size (typically cut aluminum housing)
Position on door bottom (should barely touch floor)
Mark screw holes
Drill pilot holes
Attach with screws provided
Test door operation (shouldn’t drag)

Brush vs. Rubber:

Brush: Better for uneven surfaces, gentler on flooring
Rubber: Better seal, more durable, good for smooth surfaces

What NOT to Use (Materials That Fail)

❌ Regular Expanding Foam (Without Barrier)

Why It Fails: Mice chew through standard foam in hours. Exception: Use “Great Stuff Pro Pestblock” which has bitter taste, but STILL use with steel wool.

❌ Caulk Alone in Large Gaps

Why It Fails: Mice dig through caulk. It’s not a physical barrier. When It Works: Over steel wool/hardware cloth, or in very small cracks (less than 1/4 inch).

❌ Wood Fillers

Why It Fails: Mice chew through wood easily.

❌ Plastic or Vinyl Materials

Why It Fails: Mice gnaw through most plastics.

❌ Spray Foam Insulation (Alone)

Why It Fails: Designed for insulation, not pest exclusion.

❌ Poison or Repellents

Why It Fails: Doesn’t seal entry points. Mice keep coming. Note: These have their place AFTER sealing, but don’t replace physical exclusion.

❌ Ultrasonic Repellents

Why It Fails: No scientific evidence they work. Mice adapt quickly.

After You Seal: What to Expect

Week 1-2: Trap Any Remaining Mice

What Happens:

Mice already inside can’t exit (you sealed their exits)
They’ll search for food more aggressively
You may see more activity initially (this is normal)

What to Do:

Set traps in active areas (where you saw droppings)
Use snap traps (most effective)
Place along walls (mice travel wall edges)
Check traps daily
Remove and dispose of mice promptly

Trap Placement Tips:

Against walls, perpendicular to wall
Bait side against wall
Multiple traps (space 2-3 feet apart in high-activity areas)
Try different baits: peanut butter, chocolate, bacon

Week 3-4: Monitor for New Activity

What to Look For:

New droppings (fresh are dark and moist)
New gnaw marks
New nesting material disturbance
Sounds in walls (less common after sealing)

If You Find New Activity:

Option 1: You missed an entry point (reinspect carefully)
Option 2: Mice already inside are still active (keep trapping)
Option 3: Seal deteriorated (winter freeze-thaw can crack caulk/foam)

Action Steps:

Re-examine common entry points (garage door, foundation)
Check your sealing work (look for disturbance)
Add more traps
Consider professional inspection if activity continues

Month 2-3: Enjoy Your Mouse-Free Home

If Done Correctly:

Traps catch nothing for 2+ weeks
No new droppings appear
No sounds in walls
No evidence of new activity

Maintenance Checks:

Quarterly inspection of sealing work
Annual comprehensive exterior inspection
Check garage door seal condition
Monitor for new cracks or gaps

When to Call a Professional (Be Honest About This)

Mouse-proofing is labor-intensive and requires attention to detail. You CAN do it yourself, but professionals offer advantages:

Call a Pro If:

1. You Find Evidence But Can’t Locate Entry Points

Professionals have experience finding hidden entries
They use tools like thermal cameras and inspection cameras
They know the unusual spots homeowners miss

2. Your Home Has Construction Complexities

Multiple stories
Complex rooflines
Inaccessible areas (high peaks, tight crawl spaces)
Structural issues (rot, damage)

3. You Have an Active Severe Infestation

Seeing 5+ mice per week
Droppings everywhere
Multiple locations affected
Professional-grade traps and baiting may be needed

4. You’ve Tried DIY and Mice Keep Returning

You’re missing entry points (professionals find them)
Sealing technique needs improvement
Property has unusual issues

5. Physical Limitations

Can’t climb ladders safely
Can’t access crawl spaces
Can’t work in attic
Mobility or health concerns

6. Time Constraints

Comprehensive mouse-proofing takes 8-20 hours for average home
Professionals complete in 3-6 hours with a team

What Professional Mouse-Proofing Includes

Inspection:

30+ point inspection checklist
Thermal imaging (finds gaps by temperature difference)
Inspection camera for tight spaces
Detailed documentation

Sealing:

Professional-grade materials
Proper techniques (not just foam)
Hard-to-reach areas (high rooflines, crawl spaces)
Warranty on workmanship (typically 60-90 days)

Follow-Up:

Trapping for existing population
Return visits to check sealing effectiveness
Free re-treatment if mice return (with warranty)

Cost: $300-$800 for typical home

Worth It If: Prevents $1,000+ in damage, contamination, and future pest control costs
DIY Saves: $200-500 but requires your time and labor

City-Specific Mouse-Proofing Tips

Calumet City Mouse-Proofing

Unique Challenges:

Older homes (1950s-70s) with settling foundations
Proximity to Little Calumet River (moisture attracts mice)
Industrial areas (mice travel along rail corridors)

Priority Areas:

Foundation cracks (very common in older homes)
Basement entries (many homes have exterior basement doors)
Gaps around plumbing (older plumbing often has oversized penetrations)

Learn More: Calumet City Pest Control – Mice control specific to older home construction

Palatine Mouse-Proofing

Unique Challenges:

Deer mice from Deer Grove Forest Preserve
1960s-70s Ranch homes with accessible attics
Mature trees close to homes (mice highways)

Priority Areas:

Attic/soffit vents (deer mice are excellent climbers)
Garage-to-house connections (Ranch-style often have direct access)
Gaps where trees touch roof (trim branches back)

Learn More: Palatine Pest Control – Deer mouse prevention near forest preserves

Estates Mouse-Proofing

Unique Challenges:

Attached garages in newer construction (direct house access)
Field mice from former prairie land
Commercial zone proximity (rodent pressure)

Priority Areas:

Attached garage doors (most critical entry)
Garage-to-house doorway (often has significant gap)
HVAC penetrations in garage ceiling

Learn More: Hoffman Estates Pest Control – Field mouse exclusion in newer homes

Glenview Mouse-Proofing

Unique Challenges:

Historic homes with many entry points
Wooded properties near forest preserves
Large properties = more perimeter to seal

Priority Areas:

Foundation of older homes (settling creates cracks)
Original construction gaps (historic homes have many)
Window wells (common in older basements)

Learn More: Glenview Pest Control – Mouse-proofing for historic North Shore homes

Hanover Park Mouse-Proofing

Unique Challenges:

Townhome attached garages (shared walls)
Proximity to Hanover Park Community Park (field mice)
Multi-unit buildings (mice spread between units)

Priority Areas:

Shared garage walls (mice travel between units)
Attached garage doors (primary entry)
Gaps between townhome units (foundation level)

Special Note: If you live in a townhome, talk to your neighbors. Sealing just your unit is less effective if mice can enter next door and migrate through shared walls.

Learn More: Hanover Park Pest Control – Townhome mouse exclusion strategies

Final Checklist: Are You Mouse-Proof?

Print this checklist and verify each item:

Exterior

Garage:

[ ] Bottom door seal replaced/functional
[ ] Side track gaps sealed
[ ] All utility penetrations sealed
[ ] Floor cracks filled
[ ] Windows sealed

Foundation:

[ ] All cracks filled (larger than 1/4 inch)
[ ] Weep holes have mesh inserts
[ ] Window wells covered
[ ] HVAC/AC line gaps sealed
[ ] Dryer vent functional and sealed

Roof/Attic:

[ ] Soffit vents screened (1/4 inch mesh)
[ ] Roof vents secure and screened
[ ] Fascia boards sound (no rot)
[ ] Chimney has cap
[ ] No tree branches touching roof

Utilities:

[ ] Electrical service sealed
[ ] Cable/internet lines sealed
[ ] Gas lines sealed (safely)
[ ] Water supply sealed
[ ] All exhaust vents functional

Doors & Windows:

[ ] All doors have sweeps or seals
[ ] Weatherstripping functional
[ ] Thresholds in good condition
[ ] Window frames caulked
[ ] No rotted wood

Interior

[ ] Garage-to-house door sealed
[ ] Basement doors sealed
[ ] Food stored in sealed containers
[ ] Pet food not left in garage
[ ] Clutter minimized (reduces hiding spots)

Maintenance

[ ] Quarterly inspection scheduled
[ ] Annual comprehensive check planned
[ ] Materials on hand for repairs (steel wool, foam, caulk)

Conclusion: One Weekend, Year-Round Protection

Mouse-proofing your home is a weekend project that provides year-round protection. While it’s labor-intensive and requires attention to detail, it’s the ONLY permanent solution to mouse problems.

The Math:

DIY Time: 8-20 hours (one weekend)
DIY Cost: $100-300 in materials
Professional Cost: $300-800
Vs. Ongoing Traps/Poison: $30-50/month = $360-600/year (forever)

Choose Your Path:

DIY: Save money, learn your home, satisfaction of solving it yourself
Professional: Faster, comprehensive, warranty included, peace of mind

Either way, sealing entry points is non-negotiable. Traps and poison are Band-Aids. Exclusion is the cure.

Need Help? We’re Here.

If you’ve read this guide and realized the scope is beyond your time or ability, Midwest Pest Solutions provides professional mouse exclusion throughout the Chicago suburbs.

What We Include:

Comprehensive 30-point inspection
Seal ALL entry points (not just obvious ones)
Professional-grade materials (lifetime durability)
Trapping for existing population
60-day warranty (if mice return, we return free)
Detailed documentation of work performed

Service Areas:

📞 Call 708-439-1324 for free inspection and quote with photos for quick assessment 🌐 Book online for fastest scheduling

Same-day service available | Free inspection | No obligation

Don’t wait for winter. Every day you delay is another opportunity for mice to find their way inside. Seal your home now, sleep soundly all winter.

The Complete Guide to Mouse-Proofing Your Home: Where Mice Enter & How to Seal Every Gap

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